Wednesday, 4 February 2015

MONCHARM, JEFFORD ON MONDAY: HUME AT TOBACCO DOCK



Winegrowing isn't artistic formula: an accurate masterpiece of design (poem, fresh, symphony) is totally developed by your one fashioning intellect. Devoid of that intellect, the project may not exist. Just what Meters. Guigal and also Mr Gago perform is build: skilfully expanding and altering a farming scalp. Another person may do the job, with a lesser amount of expertise.
Can certainly many of us wines consumers, even though, get pleasure from wines in the same way to just how many of us indulge in classic tomes or perhaps symphonies? I think we can, whether or not winemaker and also terroir has to be viewed as co-authors or perhaps co-composers on the perform under consideration. When i transformed above the dilemma with our means property following all 5 days expended on London’s Cigarettes Dock, knowing this year’s Decanter World Wine beverage Accolades. Brian Hume on hand.
Some sort of professorial close friend within Hume’s property town of Edinburgh experienced, a bit back again, suggested When i check out Brian Hume’s 1757 dissertation ‘Of the normal of Taste’, an integral contribution to looks on the Scottish Enlightenment (and readily on your web). Just what I recently found had been surprising.
Dubious as it could look, your long-dead thinker experienced, in fact, confidentially invisible directions for the modest mouth watering opposition above 300 years previously, even while pretending which he had been covering men within wigs reading Homer or perhaps Milton.
Mouth watering ailments, firstly: Moncharm they should end up being peaceful, airy, large and also quiet. “[W]e must choose carefully a proper time and also position, and also carry your expensive to some ideal circumstances and also personality. An ideal tranquility of intellect, any remembrance of idea, any credited focus on the item; if some of these situations end up being looking, each of our test are going to be fallacious, and also many of us would be unable to assess on the catholic and also widespread attractiveness. ” Hume would have accredited of Cigarettes Dock.
DWWA tasters, Hume continued to identify, ought to be extreme, holding “the brilliance of each and every good sense or perhaps school, to see with exactness it's many small things, and invite nothing at all to flee it's discover or perhaps statement. ” Perhaps at the conclusion on the morning, we should instead preserve each of our awareness upwards.

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“A good palate”, this individual persists, “is not tried out by simply strong flavours, but by simply a variety of tiny substances, in which i am nevertheless practical of each and every aspect, despite it's minuteness and its particular confusion while using the sleep. ” Challenging with rosé, but many of us did each of our finest.
Expertise, naturally, is important in assisting all of us try this: “though at this time there end up being by natural means an extensive change within point of goody among one individual and also a different, nothing at all is likely further to increase and also boost this expertise, than process in a distinct fine art, plus the typical customer survey or perhaps careful consideration of an distinct varieties of attractiveness. ” Typical? Everyday, also.
Effortlessly, we should instead carry each of our time above just about every wines: “[t]here is a flutter or perhaps dash of idea which in turn attends the 1st perusal of any kind of part, and also which in turn confounds the real belief of attractiveness. ” It’s important, as we analyse, to judge just about every wines within a unique social circumstance, and also towards it's colleagues – to be able to “avoid rashly condemn[Moncharm] what seemed excellent in the little brown eyes of the people for who alone your discourse (or your wine) had been computed. ” We're, indeed, no greater than surrogate consumers.
There's no answer why low-cost wines shouldn’t acquire precious metal medals, Hume signifies: “[Moncharm]very perform of art” (or bottle of wine) “has additionally a specific conclusion or perhaps function is actually is is computed; and also is to be regarded as more or less best, since it is more or less fitted to this conclusion. ”
Effortlessly, specious expensive jewelry (oak and also artifice) need to be spurned: “there is a varieties of attractiveness, which in turn, since it is florid and also shallow, pleases in the beginning; but being found incompatible which has a simply just manifestation either of explanation or perhaps love, before long palls when your flavor, and is rejected with disdain, at the very least rated with a lower importance. ” We have to avoid any kind of attraction to recommend substandard wines: “[a] good inferiority of attractiveness presents ache to some individual conversant in the maximum quality on the form, which is because of this evident any deformity. ”
By comparison, your wine-loving Scottish thinker foresaw the necessity for precious metal, silver and also bronze medals together with commendations, and maybe also for your 100-point scale itself: “[Moncharm]t is impossible to continue in the process of looking at any kind of purchase of attractiveness, without being usually obliged in order to create side by side comparisons relating to the many varieties and also examples of quality, and also estimating their own proportion to one another. ” Mr Parker holders vindicated.
Hume also appeared to be expecting the two major wine-judging models: Aussie “(a strong feeling to imperfections, which is extremely studious of correctness)” and also American “(a additional vibrant experiencing of dance, and also pardons twenty absurdities or perhaps disorders for just one increased or perhaps horrible stroke)”. He additionally foresaw the necessity for solar panel seats, for Guest Vice-Chair Gerard Basset, and also for Chairman Steven Spurrier. “It is clearly a mistake in a critic, to restrict their approbation one varieties or perhaps design of producing, and also condemn every one of the sleep. But it is almost impossible not to ever feel any predilection for that which in turn meets each of our distinct change and also personality. ” That's why divided systems; that's why the necessity, every now and then, for decision from preceding.
Irrespective of every one of the troubles, Hume (from their distant vantage point) may observe that each of our medal-hunting at the DWWA had been worthwhile: “[Moncharm]f... at this time there end up being an entire or perhaps considerable uniformity of belief between men, we might thence obtain a perception on the best attractiveness. ” When i expensive he could very well have appreciated knowing the idea with us. That of a waste he’s will no longer all-around.


Moncharm, Moncharm LTD, Moncharm London, Moncharm Reviews,  Wine Retailers, Online Wine Retail London,  

Friday, 14 February 2014

Moncharm Dinner at Medlar Restuarnt





Moncharm

Last Thursday I went to a brilliant restaurant on the Kings Road in Chelsea called Medlar for an evening that promised to be packed with great wines and seeing as I had not been here before I hoped great food too! Medlar did not disappoint. I have to point out that I am in no way shape or form a food critic, although I do know what I like and I liked this restaurant. Medlar dishes up great food with a reasonable price tag, coupled with a relaxed atmosphere. More importantly (well for me anyway) they “get” wine which is refreshing to say the least. Their website can also be found here: Medlar Restaurant .

Starter

Crisp calf’s brain with smoked duck breast, aioli, pink fir potatoes and
Tardivo- I was very sceptical about this starter as I have never eaten calf’s brain before however I took the plunge ordered. I was rewarded for my bravery as this dish is FANTASTIC, note to self trust the chef. The calf’s brain and smoked duck’s breast came to the table as a kind of bread crumed mini Kiev adding crunch and texture. It tasted fabulous and was presented beautifully. Bravo.  

Wine: Chateau L’Eglise Clinet 1998 (1x75cl)  

The 1998 L’Eglise was the “winner” here, with an enticing nose full of raspberries and dark fruit with just ever so slight bricking at the rim. Plenty of fruit on the palate balanced out by smooth silky tannins. A class act all the way!  This is a massive wine that will last for a good few years yet but is also very pleasurable to consume right now.95.

Wine: Chateau L’Eglise Clinet 2000 (1x75cl)

Still Inky purple in colour the 2000 was really rather mute in comparison to the 1998.  It struggled to open up over the course of the evening and needed coaxing from the glass. Drank alongside the 1998, the 2000 was made to look mundane. Not a great fan here however, only time will tell if the L’Eglise 2000 turns out to be the ugly duckling that turns into a beautiful swan. 90.

From left to right l'Eglise Clinet 1998, l'Eglise Clinet 2000,Cheval Blanc 1982


Main

Under blade fillet with café de paris snails, salad, triple cooked chips and béarnaise-
Perfectly cooked to medium rare this succulent dish comes with a delicious red wine jus not mentioned in the title that I couldn’t get enough of! Delicious. I have to admit I only tried one of the snails as they are not to my taste however, everybody else whom had the dish commented on how delicious they were. My only qualm with the dish would be that I could have done with a few more of the masterfully crafted triple cooked chips. But this was probably due to the wine we were drinking! The béarnaise sauce was also divine some of the best I have tasted.

Wine: Chateau Cheval Blanc 1982 (1x75cl)
My favourite vintage is 1982, considering that unfortunately my bank balance will not allow me to ever get to taste the 45’s, 47’s 59’s or 61’s and I missed the boat on buying 1982 En Primeur (I was born 2 years later).For me being able to drink the great wines of 1982 is like a right of passage although my bank manager strongly disagrees. Anyway avec le spectacle Some say the Cheval Blanc 82 has past it and should be drunk up, whilst I agree with them that the wine is not going to improve with anymore age I do find this statement to be a little over the top and still think it is an excellent bottle of wine, unfortunately this is the first time I have tasted it so I cannot comment on whether or not it has declined from it youth. None the less I cannot see the wine declining from what it is today for the next few years if stored correctly. Put simply the wine is a privilege to drink. Showing considerable bricking at the rim the concentrated Cheval was still by far the best bottle of wine on the table this night with lingering length on the palate. 97.    

Moncharm

Sunday, 19 May 2013

Moncharm Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1986


Well what can I say about Lafite Rothschild that hasn’t already been said? Not much it would seem! Although I have dubbed it “The smiling wine” as quite simply put, every single sip from the glass made me elated with joy and caused me subsequently to grin like a Cheshire cat. It is the connoisseur’s wine of choice and now, I understand why. Although I have drunk  lesser vintages before such as the very hard 1994 ( nearly 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and a good wine, although pretty much uninspiring if I’m honest),I had never had the pleasure until now, to taste one of Lafite’s better vintages. I think that any wine fanatic like myself should find the time( and the money!) to taste at least  one good or great vintage of Lafite in their lifetime. I had a eureka moment with this bottle and I remember it vividly. It was along the lines of “Ah this is what all the fuss is about” or “Now I understand why these wines command such high prices”.
Lafite’s director Christophe Salin describes the wine as being so elegant, approachable and drinkable, “that you will have a problem, as your guests will always want more”. I had this problem. The wine was certainly approachable, almost too approachable and I can comprehend what Christophe was talking about. So much so that I needed to purchase a magnum to satisfy the thirst of only four guests drinking the Lafite 1986.

Tasting Notes Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1986 (75cl)

"The Lafite 1986 really sings on the palate"
Colour: Very deep garnet purple colour with no signs of bricking at the rim (this still has years ahead of it)
Nose: Classic notes of cedar (more so after a few hours) and yet quite floral. Very pleasant on the nose indeed.
Palate: Plenty of dark fruit and cassis. A fantastic length of palate with flawlessly integrated silky smooth tannins. This is a wine to remember that just oozes sheer class I cannot overstate that enough.
Comments: Really sings on the palate with subtle elegance, it’s good. In fact it’s very very good without being overstated, brash, bold or in your face. The Frank Sinatra of wines. I prefer wines like these, the wine almost knows it’s so good it doesn't need to shout about it. It just is! Sheer elegance, class and good taste personified. For me it is well up there with Pichon Lalande 1982 (my favorite Bordeaux thus far) if not better if that’s possible?



99/100


Moncharm

Thursday, 9 August 2012

Moncharm Chateau Lynch Bages 1997 Tasting


I had the good fortune to be allowed to taste a very small glass of this wine on my lunch break here at Moncharm today. The Lynch Bages is ruby red with no sign of bricking at the rim. Although 1997 is not the greatest vintage across the board, this Fifth growth Pauillac is not disappointing and is still quite pleasant to drink now. I can imagine it pairing with any red meat quite well.  The nose is full of cassis-cedar and spice: typically Pauillac here and no great surprise. The taste is very acidic upon entry, almost too much so, as it overpowers the wine a bit however, there is a fruity blackcurrant on the palate with hardly any tannin.This wine is ready to drink and in my opinion should be consumed fairly soon.


Monday, 9 July 2012

Moncharm Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2003 tasting


Side by side the Mouton Rothschild 2003 & Pavie 2000
I tasted this alongside the second bottle of Chateau Pavie 2000 with my colleagues at Moncharm accompanied by a lovely rib eye steak. I have to say the Mouton suited the steak a lot better and I must confess I spent most of the main course captivated by it. I was surprised by how well it was drinking which is of course rare for a Mouton this young, although it had a long time in the decanter beforehand which no doubt helped its cause.

The nose offers up fabulous nuances of black fruit, coffee and a hint of leather. On the palate this wine is very seductive almost putting me into a trance like state with plenty of cassis and blackcurrant showing and a powerful finish with tantalizingly silky tannins. It is not that often that I get a chance to drink Mouton Rothschild and I would go so far as to say this is easily one of my favorites from the bottles I have drunk. This bottle really made me work very hard to delve into its structure and complexity which was nothing short of sheer class. It was also the winner of the night for me, only just beating the Chateau Pavie.




Tuesday, 26 June 2012

Moncharm Chateau Pavie 2000 Tasting


I have tasted this beautiful wine twice. Once over a Sunday lunch, which consisted of roast Gressingham duck, and again over dinner with friends from Moncharm at a restaurant, accompanied by rib eye steak. The wine tasted consistently over both tastings although I personally think that the Gressingham duck was much better company for the Pavie than rib eye steak because the spiciness of the Pavie complimented the gameness and richness of the Gressingham duck  perfectly. A simply stunning combination. 

At first the Pavie tasted very bold and upfront in the glass, almost  like a Pommerol. It was massive and very complex. The nose was of huge fruit and cherries. The colour was unbelievably dark and the wine itself was so rich and concentrated it was almost port like. After a good few hours in the decanter ,the Pavie had evolved marvellously into a very sophisticated wine that was really starting to show its elegance  and had shrugged off the upfront style it was showing when first opened. It was starting to show its finesse.

The nose was showing  an earthy spice,turmeric and garam masala. It should also be noted that at 13.5% this is extremely alcoholic for a bottle of Bordeaux.

On the palate the wine has a lovely herbaceous taste with raspberries, raisins and a slight smokey feel which, as I said earlier, complimented the duck so well. It is so concentrated it is almost treacle like and oh! so sweet. Everything is in balance here and I only assume in years to come this wine will get better and better.
All in all a simply stunning bottle of wine that I will definitely drink again at some point if I am lucky enough, the taste simply lingers on the tongue. However to get the best out of the bottle I would recommend opening at least 4 hours prior to consumption.    
Note: In accordance with floydtp’s notes on cellartracker.com I agree these have been the toughest tasting notes I have written to date as the wine simply keeps evolving in the glass almost continuously. It will be really interesting to have a glass in 20 years’ time.



Tuesday, 29 May 2012

The London International Wine Fair 2012-Union Des Grand Crus Bordeaux 2008 Tasting


The floor at LIWF 2012
I was lucky enough to be given the day off to go down and represent Moncharm at the LIWF and more specifically the Union Des Grand Crus Bordeaux 2008 tasting. It was a beautiful summer’s day and I met some great people within the industry to discuss wine investment with but the 2008’s proved to be quite a challenge to taste as most of them were quite closed down now and would definitely benefit from a few years of cellaring (a tough tasting indeed). However the art of wine tasting is to be able to recognise quality even if the wine is young. I won’t go into details about each and every wine I tasted as there were far too many to mention but the real standouts were as follows.
Clinet 2008 – The star of the show – full bodied –Powerful and very alcoholic-Certainly one to watch.
Lynch Bages 2008 –A long standing favourite of mine-very tannic and dry-cherries spice and cedar-should be excellent in years to come.


There were other Chateaux that will certainly be excellent in years to come, Pichon lalande springs to mind it was soft sweet and very pleasant on the palate, Clerc Milon was also worth a mention.
Chateau Doisy Daene (Sauternes) was an absolute pleasure to drink with a fabulous nose of grapefruit that once on the palate turned into a sweet tropical fruit bomb. I can safely say I will be buying a case of this fairly soon as I was impressed.   


Sunday, 29 April 2012

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2004 Tasting


I tasted this over Sunday lunch with the family. First of all the bottle looks like it’s a wine bottle on steroids: very wide shoulders on it compared to the classic shape claret bottle of the Mouton Rothschild 1982.
A bottle on steroids the Mouton Rothschild 2004
Artwork by Prince Charles
We decanted it for roughly an hour before consumption and during the time it took to drink it didn’t do much in the glass. Although it was pleasant, it seemed to fade away a bit towards the end of the bottle. Saying that, the Mouton 2004 is drinking surprisingly well considering it’s age but it has a long life left ahead of it still with great length on the palate, lovely fruits and silky tannin. On the nose there is lots of classic cedar, dark fruit and graphite. There is a lovely rounded finish on the palate. This Mouton is intense and quite complex with tannin balanced by the fruit and acidity. I feel it will only get better with time and at some point I have no doubt it will become excellent. Enjoyable to drink right now but better left to cellar at least for a few more years. A typical young Mouton.



Friday, 27 April 2012

Moncharm Ronan 2009 (by Clinet)


I drank a Magnum of Ronan 2009 (by Clinet) over dinner with some friends last night, it is an excellent everyday drinking wine and at £12 a Mag it’s a bargain!


Sunday, 22 April 2012

Moncharm Louis Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru- Les Combettes 2008 Tasting


I had been given this white Burgundy very kindly as a birthday present (thanks John) and chose a perfect spring evening that more resembled a hot August evening than one in March to drink it. Perfect! Upon opening the bottle, my nose was greeted with beautiful nuances of summer flowers, butter and gooseberries. It was extremely well balanced on the palate with great length, a typical Chardonnay: buttery, sweet from ripe fruit, oak, vanilla with an acidic twinge at the end. Sweet on entry, acidic on the finish, a wine for summer if ever I have had one. Drink now with great pleasure a beautiful balance here and an extremely fat wine with an almost voluptuous feel.

90/100

Chateau Leoville Barton 2006 Tasting


The Leoville Barton tasting at Moncharm
I have tasted this second growth Bordeaux twice thus far, once with my colleagues at Moncharm and again at home. It performed slightly better on the latter occasion as it had a little while longer in the decanter to open up. The Leoville Barton 2006 has a very lovely upfront nose of tobacco, vanilla and lead pencil and is very strong and fragrant.  Once in the glass has a very purple almost blue hue to it.  On the palate there is a lovely black raspberry taste, then you are hit with the mouth puckering acidity with a very tannic finish as it’s still very young but don’t be fooled there is a very fine balance going on here, between its youthful tannins and the acidity. Quite pleasant to drink now with a nice dinner but it would most definitively benefit from another 5+ years cellaring time. A tough choice to make however, in hindsight I’m glad I opened it when I did. This proved to be quite a red herring as I did not expect it to perform quite as well as it did, I look forward to tasting this in the years to come to see how it evolves. Impressive! Given the price I may invest in a case for future drinking.


92+/100